(January 13)

Day 19 - Vanderpool to Camp Wood TX

"Only" Is Relative

 

 

Another member of my tribe...Iris from Southern Bavaria. Based on the expression on her face in this pic, I don't think she liked having her picture taken! But she let me take one anyway :)

As soon as I saw this sign I knew I was totally safe. 13 motorcycle deaths, but 0 cycling deaths!

 

 This diagram shows the hills along the route I took. I began Thursday morning in Kerrville (the far right town in the pic) and climbed, climbed, climbed all the way to near Vanderpool (unmarked, but in the first big valley after Ingram and Hunt) and then a seriously hair-raising roller coaster descent into Vanderpool. On Friday I had the huge "spike" climbs you see between Vanderpool and Camp Wood.

It is “only” 38 miles or so from the Lost Maples area north of Vanderpool Texas to Camp Wood Texas, my desired stopping point for the night. At home, in a paceline riding the Germantown HS loop to include the Mt. Leopard extension (about 42 miles total), I could make it in no more than 3 hours, and most probably less.

But that word “only” leaves a lot out.

Getting on the road before dawn, I was full of dread for the day ahead. First, as I departed the Foxfire Cabins at dawn it was raining. And it kept raining off and on all morning. Now, that in and of itself isn’t too bad. But I also knew I had three of the steepest climbs I’d face during my entire trip ALL between Vanderpool and Camp Wood (see the attached pic of the Elevation Chart). So, “only” 38 miles might be a distance I possibly couldn’t even make.

The dread ratcheted up a notch when, not more than a mile into my ride I realized that my legs were really fatigued. Fatigued as in I was having trouble climbing just about any incline, much less the three monster ascents ahead of me. Let me define “monster” here: each big ascent of today featured a 10+% grade for at least a mile each time.

Ok...I tried to ride up the first big monster ascent: I really did. That attempt lasted probably 10 yards. I ended up walking my bike up the entire ascent of over a mile. Just couldn’t do it. Same with the second ascent. Same with one or two other “lesser” ascents that were really steep albeit not as long.

Then, blessed relief arrived in the form of a nice little downhill stretch into Leakey. There, parked on its side I spotted a touring bike loaded up with panniers. Just one...which was unique so far. Pulling up, as I was leaning my bike up against the store and taking off some of my soaked rain layers, another bike tourist comes out of the general store: Iris from Southern Bavaria. Although a bit early for lunch for me, I see an excellent excuse to postpone the third major ascent of the day that was coming up next, and stayed a bit to chat with Iris.

Iris quit her job in banking six years ago and now works during the summer in Germany as an Outward Bound leader and then bike tours in different places around the world during the winters. Bolivia, the US, Columbia, etc.. While she doesn’t always ride solo as she was on this trip, she bike tours for several months each year during her off-season. She started this particular tour roughly 3 months ago in San Francisco, and was headed east to Florida.

And, let me tell you, meeting her was a humbling experience. First, she wasn’t eating at some lunch place like I do, she was making her own lunch there on the bench outside the store from a loaf of bread, some summer sausage, some butter and cream cheese. And she camps pretty much every night. And, I don’t think she walked up any hills getting to Leakey Texas! And she averages in the 60-70 miles per day range vs. my 40-60 range. In short, she is the real deal when it comes to bike touring. So, while I’m a bike tourist, I’m just not in that league. Maybe someday, who knows. I do know I don’t think I like to camp anywhere near as much as Iris does!

Then the final monster ascent. Which I walked my bike up. This time even a longer walk of shame than before. But, by this time, believe me I was beyond shame. All I knew was that I had to make it or else. And since walking it was the only possible way I was going to get over those hills and to the next town with lodging, I was happy simply to be able to walk it. Because, even walking my bike up hills like that isn’t exactly easy. It was STILL a workout.

Today it was clear this part of my journey it really isn’t about beautiful sunrises, stunning natural scenery or anything so prosaic: it’s just about making it. Sure, I was humbled by a more fit, tougher solo tourist. Sure, I was humbled by how much I had to walk my bike. But, in the end, I made it that much closer to my goal and THAT is a result I can celebrate!